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Thursday, December 8, 2011

Chapter 13. Red Ball Sightseeing


How divine it was to be thawing out after our all night wet ride!   Once we females were assigned spaces inside the tent and our loads were dumped on our Army cots, we fished out our aluminum cases containing our steel knife, fork and spoon and our metal drinking cup and rushed out to breakfast in the deliciously warm sunshine.  The bottom part of the tin case covered with heaps of scrambled dried eggs, probably potatoes and maybe even a pancake, we dived in—but not just “we.”  Honeybee after honeybee joined the feast.
None of us realized that between the loaded fork and the mouth there is an un-seeable point.  Two or three diners had their tongues stung, tipping off the rest of us to watch out.  Those bees knew precisely when to land on the bite of food and plagued us constantly in Normandy, and later, in open-air eating.  At most meals some mouths got stung.  It was frustrating to know you’d have your turn any bite. 
That morning, well fed and warm again, we sensed the drama of being in this apple orchard.  Along with other Normandy apple orchards our new grounds seemed almost sacred.  American bodies still were being discovered in the weeded ditches surrounding the orchards so of course we began to imagine that in ours there WAS an unusual odor.  Without discussing it much, usually two by two we wandered around the first couple of days searching the thistles and tall weeds under the tree-hedged perimeter.  We never learned whether or not that apple orchard was the scene of a battle since no evidence was found.
Our latrine was a ditch dug by our GIs.  For privacy there was a chest-high canvas wall surrounding it.  We dressed inside our dark tents but had to go out in the light to comb our hair or put on make-up.  After dressing the hours stretched ahead with nothing whatever to do until the next meal except to watch the big Army supply trucks, each with its brightly painted Red Ball covering its side door, rumble up or down the nearby road.
“What an opportunity,” thought Mary Kate and I and we proceeded to get approval to hitch-hike.  So off we went almost every day thumbing a ride with whatever GI driver came along traveling toward a destination that was new to us. As we entered a town that looked interesting (by noon or before) we would jump out of the front seat, and note how long it had taken to arrive at that village.  We explored the town or village and visited with the few people around but always with our eyes on our watches.  When we had just the amount of time left to get home in time for supper, we walked back to the road and thumbed a ride back to our apple orchard.
We were not far from Bayeux, the home of the famous historic tapestries and we hoped to go there but we never did.  Bayeux must not have been on the main road.  I remember Sainte-Mere Eglise, one of the larger towns.  We seldom knew the names of the villages.  Most were in Normandy but some were in Burgundy, farther west and north. 
Such a lot we learned about the area, its country life, its beauty and its problems.  The people, though surprised to see us, were very friendly and kind.  Mary Kate and I sometimes had to choose a house, swallow our pride and knock on the door to ask to use their toilet facilities.
In town, country and city throughout France there were pissoirs in abundance for the men; however, for women there were absolutely no public toilets to be found.  In Paris in the main subway entrances there were facilities for women but they were pitch black and underground and they were unsafe to enter during the war.  Electricity was in short supply.

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